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Road Trips Billings, MT → Thermopolis, WY

Beartooth Highway to Bighorn Canyon: Montana & Wyoming's Most Underrated Summer Drive

Drive the Beartooth Highway (US-212) and Bighorn Canyon on this 420-mile underrated Montana-Wyoming road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and zero crowds.

Billings, MT
Thermopolis, WY
8–9 hours driving time across 3–4 days 420 mi Open in Navio →
Route map: Billings, MT to Thermopolis, WY
summerunderratedscenic bywayMontanaWyomingBeartooth HighwayBighorn Canyonroad trip

This 420-mile loop from Billings, MT to Thermopolis, WY via US-212 (Beartooth Highway) and US-14A takes 8–9 hours of total drive time spread over 3–4 days. It is one of the most visually dramatic and genuinely crowd-light summer drives in the American West. Most drivers blasting toward Yellowstone miss the Bighorn Basin entirely, and that is exactly why this route works. You get alpine tundra, a 10,947-foot summit, a canyon bigger than most people realize exists, and hot springs at the finish — without fighting for a parking spot at any of them.

Quick Facts

  • Total distance: ~420 miles
  • Total drive time: 8–9 hours (driving only; plan 3–4 days)
  • Best season: Mid-June through September (Beartooth Pass typically opens late May but snow lingers at the summit into June)
  • Number of stops: 5 major stops
  • Starting point: Billings, MT
  • Ending point: Thermopolis, WY

Who This Route Is For

  • Best for drivers who want high-altitude scenery without Yellowstone’s summer gridlock — this route skims Yellowstone’s northeast entrance but doesn’t require entering the park.
  • Good for adventure-focused couples and solo drivers comfortable with steep switchbacks and rapidly changing mountain weather.
  • Not recommended for RVs or trailers over 35 feet — US-212 over Beartooth Pass has tight curves, steep grades, and pull-outs that don’t accommodate long rigs; the National Park Service explicitly advises against it.
  • Works well as an add-on for anyone finishing the Seattle to Glacier National Park drive via US-2 who wants to continue south into Wyoming.

Stop 1: Billings, MT — Your Launch Pad

Billings is the practical start: full fuel options, multiple grocery stores, and reliable cell service before you head into genuinely remote terrain. Fill your tank here — gas stations thin out dramatically once you leave Red Lodge. For breakfast before departure, the Café Zydeco on Montana Avenue does solid eggs and biscuits and opens at 7 a.m. Check your tire pressure; the climb ahead is not forgiving on underinflated tires.

Stop 2: Red Lodge, MT (1 hour from Billings via US-212 South)

Red Lodge sits at the base of Beartooth Pass and earns a stop on its own merits. The town is compact, walkable, and stocked with the last reliable fuel and food before the high country. Fill up at the Cenex on South Broadway — it’s the last pump before Cooke City, roughly 65 miles away with nothing in between. The Carbon County Historical Society Museum is worth 45 minutes if you’re traveling with curious passengers. Broadway Burger Station handles the lunch crowd well with local beef burgers and huckleberry shakes.

Stop 3: Beartooth Pass Summit (45 minutes from Red Lodge via US-212)

The Beartooth All-American Road (US-212) is the full official designation, and the summit pull-out at roughly 10,947 feet is the centerpiece of this entire trip. In late June 2026, expect snow patches on the tundra even on warm days — temperatures at the top routinely run 20–30°F cooler than Red Lodge. Afternoon thunderstorms build fast over the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness; aim to cross the summit before noon. The Top of the World Store, just past the Wyoming state line, sells hot coffee and basic supplies and makes a sensible weather check stop. Do not skip the short walk to the viewpoint overlooking the switchbacks you just climbed — the perspective on the road geometry alone is worth five minutes out of the car.

Seasonal hazard: US-212 closes entirely in winter and can close temporarily for snow even in June. Check Montana DOT (511.mt.gov) and Wyoming DOT (wyoroad.info) the morning you plan to drive it.

Stop 4: Cooke City, MT (1 hour from the Summit via US-212)

Cooke City is a one-road town of about 140 year-round residents and has a personality outsized relative to its size. The Beartooth Café serves elk burgers and homemade pie; the portions are large and the prices are still reasonable by 2026 standards. This is also your last cell service for a stretch, so download offline maps before leaving. Cooke City sits at Yellowstone’s northeast entrance — you can detour into the park via the Lamar Valley road if wildlife is a priority, but it adds 2–3 hours and is not required to complete this route.

Stop 5: Lovell, WY & Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area (2.5 hours from Cooke City via US-212 East to US-310 South)

Drop southeast from Cooke City through the Clarks Fork Canyon — itself dramatically underappreciated — and pick up US-310 south toward Lovell, Wyoming. Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area (US-14A access from Lovell) splits the Wyoming-Montana border with 71 miles of reservoir carved between sheer limestone walls rising 1,000 feet straight off the water. Visitor numbers here are a fraction of any comparable canyon park. The Horseshoe Bend Overlook on the Wyoming side requires a short 0.5-mile walk and delivers an unobstructed view of the reservoir curving into the canyon walls. Fuel is available in Lovell before entering the recreation area. The park charges a $20/vehicle fee (America the Beautiful pass accepted). Summer temperatures in the canyon bottom regularly hit 95°F+ by early afternoon — carry at least two liters of water per person.

Stop 6: Thermopolis, WY (1.5 hours from Lovell via WY-789 South)

Thermopolis wraps the route with a practical reward: Hot Springs State Park, which contains the world’s largest mineral hot spring by flow volume and offers free soaking in the state bathhouse. After days of mountain driving, it’s a legitimate reason to stop rather than push through. The town has a handful of motels on US-20 and a Maverick gas station for the drive home or onward. The Legend Rock Petroglyph Site, 21 miles northwest of town off WY-120, is worth the detour if you have a high-clearance vehicle — the dirt access road can be soft after summer rain.

FAQ

How long does it take to drive the Beartooth Highway (US-212) from Red Lodge to Cooke City?

The 68-mile stretch takes approximately 1.5–2 hours under normal summer conditions due to steep grades, switchbacks, and frequent pull-outs. Budget extra time if you plan to stop at the summit viewpoints, which most drivers do.

Is the Beartooth Highway safe to drive in late June?

Generally yes, but with caveats. The pass typically opens by late May, but snow and ice can reappear at the summit overnight even in late June. Check Montana DOT’s 511 system the morning of your drive and carry an extra layer — summit temperatures can drop below freezing in afternoon storms.

Do you need a permit to drive through Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area?

No permit is required, but a $20 per vehicle entrance fee applies (valid for 7 days). Annual America the Beautiful passes are accepted. No timed-entry reservations are needed as of summer 2026.

Are there gas stations on the Beartooth Highway between Red Lodge and Cooke City?

Only one: the Top of the World Store near the Wyoming state line sells fuel but at premium prices and limited hours. Fill up completely in Red Lodge before starting the climb and treat anything at Top of the World as emergency backup only.

Can you drive this route in a regular passenger car?

Yes. A standard passenger car handles US-212 fine in dry summer conditions. The road is paved throughout. The only exception is the optional detour to Legend Rock Petroglyphs near Thermopolis, which uses an unpaved access road that can become muddy after rain and benefits from higher clearance.

What is the best time of day to drive Beartooth Pass?

Early morning — aim to leave Red Lodge by 8 a.m. and summit before noon. Afternoon thunderstorms develop quickly over the Absaroka range in summer and can bring lightning, hail, and near-zero visibility at the pass with very little warning.

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